Getting Ready Part 9 or BVIs Here We Come!
Pre-Ramble:
I realize it has been some time since I last posted to the
blog. No real excuse, just a lot of good
intentions with little follow through.
Before I get back to the tale of how we got here, an update on what has
been happening or not since I last posted.
At last post, we had our big sale, I got to ride in a big vehicle with
lots of flashing lights, and had people cut stuff out of me. I am happy to say, after some recovery, I am
doing fine. October found Jo and me on
the road until early November. The trip
took us to Riverton NJ, Washington D.C. (during the shutdown), to Annapolis for
the U.S. Sailboat Show, to the middle of N.C. for chicken and waffles, back
porch sitting (and drinking). From there
we headed to the OBX of N.C. for time with friends, family, and time by
ourselves wandering the lower OBX, walking in the sand, and enjoying the beach
life. Back on the road it was off to
Biloxi via a couple ferry rides, short stops along the way, and a shock to our
sense of all that is ascetically correct in "South of the Border"
S.C. In Biloxi, a large time was had
with a former student and her family with a side trip to LuLu's in Gulf Shores
and some time on the Red Neck Riviera, complete with a visit to the Naval Air
Museum in Pensacola FL. A long haul took
us to Houston (Kingwood) where Jo fed her other passion at the International
Quilt Show; we spent some quality time with her family before a pit stop back
in Lubbock and then a trip to see my father in Colorado Springs. Overall, it was 6,000+ miles, many hotel
bills, an unidentified smell from the back of the car, a case of Kalik, one of Carib,
and 2 of Yuengling beer, and most importantly the time-off from life, health,
our house not selling, and time with each other. Oh yeah, the house. Well, as I said, it had not sold as of the
trip and remains unsold today. Currently
it is for sale by owner and if you are wondering what kind of dump we are
living in that has not sold in 20 months you can visit the website at
Ok now back to the sailing.
When I last visited the subject, we had survived Captain Ron in the
Abaco's and Homeland Security and Immigration let me back into the country
after a few tense moments. Having
learned a lot while on our two week bareboat charter we realized we had a lot
more to learn so it was back to school back on the s/v Kathleen D, except this time with Captain Tracy
in Florida, in February. Now the Chamber
of Commerce would have you believe that it is always sunny and warm in FL; it's
not, and it happened to be especially not this February. Even though, as compared to the Northern
parts of the country, the upper 30's to mid 40's is relatively warm in
February, when you are on a boat, on the water, it's pretty damn cold. The plan was to complete ASA 105 Costal
Navigation and ASA 106 Advanced Costal Cruising in preparation for a 10-day
bareboat charter in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) that summer and for our
life aboard that, we had hoped would be sooner, not later. There was another student for the two
classes, Bob (I think; sorry if not) from Pittsburgh and Jo was a ridesail-along. As I mentioned, it was cold and we were cold,
and of having believed the Chamber without cold weather clothes but the sailing
was great, the classes were expertly delivered by Captain Tracey. Bob, being an engineer in the real world
helped me with the difficult (a.k.a. math) in the navigation sections. We passed our classes and were qualified on
spinnakers and kissed a migrating sandbar only once. As you might remember form earlier posts, s/v Kathleen D is a Maine Cat 41, she is
a fast boat, and we had seriously considered a Maine Cat for our live-aboard
home but for a lot of good reasons (budget for one) won't go that route. The sailing was wonderful with plenty of wind
and surprisingly from the right direction.
We sailed into Tampa Bay under the Sunshine Bridge, met up with Bob's
wife, who was staying on land during the class, one night for drinks and dinner
and with the exception of Jo's hair freezing to the inside hull had a great
time. From there we made the short
flight to Ft. Lauderdale and on into South Beach for the Miami and Strictly
Sail Boat Show. We had no idea what to
expect and no way to expect what we saw.
If it went in or on the water, it was there. From Cigarette Boats straight out of Miami
Vice to small dinghies and everything in-between. It was so big, that there was a shuttle
between the two docks and the Miami Convention Center. There were vendors of all things nautical and
a lot that wasn't who tempted us like carnival barkers and the scene was
completed with girls in bikinis posing
on the bows of sleek speed boats and grisly old-salts (Bob Bitchen) one of whom
I swear had a wooden peg-leg. Land Shark
Beer had a rest area complete with cold beer and great beach chairs and the
Florida Lottery commission was selling lotto tickets and dreams at every
corner. We looked at many cats,
seriously considered buying one through
a charter company and putting it into charter service for five years but alas,
my lotto luck was not with me (nor has it ever been) and the 56K needed as a
down payment was beyond the balance in our check book. Then each night, after our senses and feet
could take no more it was off to the cultural roux that is South Beach;
something right out of a Carl Hiaasen novel or Dave Barry feature. The one negative of the experience was it
was cold! Damn cold with a northern
front pushing through that brought extreme wind and rain one night. Like all good things, it had to come to an
end and life back in Lubbock beckoned so off we went, but still to come that
summer waited a 10-day bareboat charter on s/v
Birds Nest, a Lagoon 380 in Tortola BVI.
For all the BVIs are not like the Bahamas, they do have
catering to the chartering industry down since this is where it
originated. Provisioning the boat is one
of the most thankless jobs there is and one in which the person doing the
provisioning is often blamed for not getting the right stuff, or enough of this
or that. You have to go to a market
(usually several) arrange for a cab and try and get your frozen and cold items
back to the boat before they are neither frozen or cold. Some charter companies offer to provision the
boat for you for a fee but that has never appealed to me. In the BVIs, several of the markets offer a
delivery service, for free (well you should tip the delivery guy); we used
Bobby's Market and are quite pleased. How it works is a week or so before your
charter you go online and fill out a form with all your requests, whatever you
wish for the time you are there, give them your CC information and they fill it
as close as possible. Then at an approximate
time (it is Island Time, mon) the stuff shows up at your charter vessel and you
unload the food, beer, sodas, more beer, rum, well you get the idea and the
delivery guy takes the cardboard boxes away.
Note: cardboard onboard equals roaches onboard so no cardboard of any
kind is allowed. You can rent about any
water toy you want, including dive gear or in our case a hammock and even rent
a local pre-paid cell phone. So the
morning of the charter the provisions arrived, the hammock arrived, we received
our walk-thru and briefing which consisted of telling us where we could go and
where we couldn't and what to look out
for. The BVIs are comprised of the main
island of Tortola that has a basic north-east to south-west orientation with a
series of islands on the Atlantic side roughly south-east and one main island
towards the west. The body of water
between Tortola and the islands to the south-east is the Sir Francis Drake
Channel. Now if the name, Sir Francis
Drake sounds familiar then you are either a British Naval history buff or fan
of swashbuckler pirate movies; that would be me. For those of you who are neither he is
described by the Google as a sea captain, navigator, slaver, and privateer;
that is a sanctioned pirate by one government usually to pillage another
countries ships, think of them as a government contractor. While the English see him as a hero, the
Spanish wanted to hang him as a pirate.
Yes my friends, this is the real Pirates of the Caribbean part of the
world, replete with the real Dead Chest, so yo-ho-ho, here we go!
We motored out of the protected cove that was charter base
to BareCat into a 25knt wind. There is a
saying that the wind is either too light or too strong but always from the
wrong direction and this was the case.
Instead of beating into the wind inducing even more queasiness in
daughter #2 we motored across to Soldiers Bay and grabbed a mooring. Ah moorings!
In the Abaco's we had anchored everywhere with rare exceptions. There the islands are low and the water
depths are relatively shallow and the seabed is mostly sand and turtle
grass. It's what you might think of when
you picture an island in the Caribbean or South Pacific. However, the islands that make up the
windward and leeward islands of the Caribbean, including the BVI, are volcanic
in nature (some still active) with very deep harbors and for the most part
coral seabed. Anchoring in coral is
never ok since it kills the coral, which is the heart and lungs of the
ocean. Therefore, throughout the islands
the anchorages are placed and allegedly maintained mooring buoys to which, for
a fee, you can tie your vessel. It is
not as easy as it sounds and takes coordination between the helmsman (who is
usually the man/captain) and the happy hooker (usually the spouse/admiral) so
if you want to play 'happy hooker and the boat boy' later in your cabin you
should not take on the persona of Captain Bligh during this process. Watching other people attempt to pick up a
mooring can be an entertaining way to spend your cocktail hours. We got pretty good at mooring and there
wasn't as much shouting as expected or predicted. We worked our way from
anchorage to anchorage, hit the popular spots such as the Baths (where parts of
the Johnny Depp movies really were filmed) and Willie T's (a floating
Bacchanal) and docked a cat for the first time by ourselves; three times! As I had mentioned it was offseason so many
of the on shore diversions were closed but also gone were the crowds of
bareboat sailors, credit card captains, and cruise ships that dominate the
waters during the winter. We sailed on
to Cane Garden Bay just like in the Jimmy Buffett song and drank the Foxy's
Firewater Rum that Kenny Chesney sings about and drank a lot of Carib Beer and
good cheap rum. Once Daughters' #
1&2 got over their displeasure of being denied their cell phones they began
to enjoy themselves. Still seeking their
independence from mom & dad I decided to let them take the dink ashore to
Pussers at Marina Cay once we had snagged a mooring and the deck was swabbed
(yes I am that captain). Jo had gone below for a nap and I had cut the
auxiliary engines. Daughter 1 & 2
got gussied-up and with spending cash in hand (shopping after all) they were
ready to go. As I have explained in past
blogs, the dinghy is akin to the family car and like the family car; it is hard
to get it from point A to B without the engine, outboard in this case. Yes you could row it and with an inflatable
dinghy you would be just as successful as pushing your car down the street. The big difference here however, is the
dinghy will go on its own willy-nilly at the whims and forces of current and
wind. For this reason, it is best to
start the boats family car while the painter (the line you use to tie and tow
the dinghy) is still attached to the mother ship. Well you know what happened next, right, they
couldn’t get the outboard started but had already untied the painter and off
they drifted. Now this was the first of
many bad decisions that were to be made that day. As I watched them drift away and shouting
instructions, I had two, well maybe three options. One really good and prudent something a good
captain would do, the other ok but not as fast, and the third one. Option one would be, start the engines, cast
off the mooring bridle and go retrieve the daughters and as sound as this might
have been it didn't come to me at all.
Option two would involve getting on the radio and calling for
assistance, ok help. Now I did consider
this but decided on option three; captain hero dad! Now in preparation for my cruising life I
had gotten a gym membership and actually went 3-4 days a week for the past two
years and I was in pretty good shape for a ageing fat man, so of course it was
time to channel my inner Johnny Weissmuller and dive into the ocean, swim to
the daughters and save the day, except, well I had seriously misjudged their
distance and drifting speed and my physical abilities. As daughter #2 put it "daddy you just
kept disappearing behind the waves" while in reality I was in the trough
between waves but it was humbling.
Luckily, for all involved, there were several boats coming in and one
plucked me out of the ocean and went to retrieve the arrant dinghy. Unfortunately, mom did not sleep through the commotion and
was waiting for us when we were dropped off by the other boat. I do believe this is where daughter #2
developed the philosophy that if you were going to be in trouble, get yourself
in said trouble when another around you was in more trouble; in this case, that
would be me. Shore leave was canceled
for all, needless to say.
From there we headed to Virgin Gorda first to the Baths then
into Spanish Town to replace the bucket the daughters lost over board, which,
as we all know it is bad luck to kick the bucket. From there off to Saba Rock in Gorda
Sound. This proved to be one of the
nicer places to stay complete with up to 60 gallons of free water with your
mooring. We also had a free drink coupon
from the bar, they had hammocks for their guests under swaying palms, and did I
mention the free drink coupon. The next
morning rose on my birthday and to celebrate we left the protection of the
Drake Channel and skirted Sir Richard Branson's Private Island (Necker Island)
out into the Atlantic for a run down the outside complete with a following sea
and seasick daughter #2 who after a Dramamine slept the day away. We surfed down the waves and I couldn’t have
asked for a better birthday. That night
we ended up in the Bight at Norman Island for an evening at the infamous Willy
T's and even thought I came home with a T-Shirt, I did not get it for free by
jumping naked off the upper deck. The
next morning, was time to fuel the boat up clean her up and return her to her
caregivers. The BVIs held many other wonderful
experiences ranging from dodging jellyfish while snorkeling to the self-service
bar and wonderful people at Sidney's Peace & Love in Little Harbor Jost Van
Dyke. A cab ride to the airport, a night
spent in Puerto Rico followed by a long flight home and we felt one-step closer
to our dream.
Next time, back to the BVI's, introducing friends to
cruising, 2 weeks just the two of us, and for our last sailing trip to
date.
Photos From Getting Ready Part 9
Sailing in Tampa:
Captain Tracey |
Sailing in the BVIs:
Last Night; But First....Willy T's