It has been brought to my attention by my editor that my recent blog postings might be "scaring off" family and friends from the sailing life at the least and feeling we are in mortal danger at the worst. This is NOT the case. Yes we do get bumps and bruises, and it is not all palm trees (although there are few places we have been without palm trees) and rum punches (again rum punch is pretty much everywhere.) As for it being dangerous, well statistically my former job in tech theatre was far more dangerous than this. Here we often can control, to an extent, the "danger" by making wise choices. For example, driving on ice, very dangerous. Living and sailing in the tropics we have avoided that danger this winter, how about you? Storms! Well come May we will be heading south to another set of lovely islands complete with palm trees and rum punches to 'suffer' through the storm season. For smaller storms we stay put on our new, safe oversized anchor or snug in a marina until the storm passes or we get ready to move on. As for scrapes and bruises, well trust me I got plenty living on land and working in the theatre. But you still might need further convincing that this is NOT a miserable existence so in homage to David Letterman I have come up with a:
Top Ten List of Things That Are Great about being on a boat and living the nomadic life
we have CHOSEN.
Number 10: Da Boat.
Ok, I shouldn’t have to say any more but you know I will. We live on a sail boat! Not sail one around for the weekend and go back to our condo/house, the boat is our world. Like your home on land (I address this to those on land because those living on boats already get it) our home on water is our pride and joy as well as our pain in the you know where. She is not the biggest girl in the anchorage by far but she's not the smallest. She's not the fastest but she goes as fast as we want. There are things that aren't ideal but I dare say there are things about your dirt located home that aren't ideal. What she is, is: safe, mobile, and represents the freedom to move whenever we wish. Neighbors too noisy, move if you want. Anchorage too rough, move somewhere else. Rum or beer at the beach bar a little warm or the cheeseburgers not as good as you wished, well you get the idea. This is my idea of a mobile home. The other thing about our boat is that she is damn good looking! She is sleek comfortable and has just enough projects for me to keep me as busy as I want to be. The other thing great thing about our boat, well she allows us to live, while not completely off the grid, very eco-friendly. We burn very little diesel and are taking steps as budget allows to use even less by upgrading our batteries and adding more solar as the cruising kitty (bank funds) allow. We walk or take public transportation almost everywhere and only when necessary because of the amount of provisions we have, take a taxi. Unless we have to, we sail which is kinder to the environment and the cruising kitty. It's not camping by any stretch of the imagination. We have ice and cold beer and make our own water so we can take showers whenever we want. We mostly hand-wash and line dry the few clothes we choose to wear and except when trapped in a marina without a breeze our air conditioning is provided by open hatches and steady trade winds. Yes she moves under us and we have to be in tune with our environment and adapt but did I mention we live on a sailboat!
Pictures of S/V Caribbean Dream
Number 9: Location, Location, Location!
Isn't that what every realtor will tell you? My friend Kyle who owns Mountain Hideaway back in Lubbock TX (my fly fishing pusher) once told me trout don't live in ugly places, and he is right. They also don't live in warm places so I now fly fish for other species. Now I can't say everywhere poses idyllic beauty but if not, sail on to another location (see #10) so we tend not to live in ugly places. We live in an ever changing environment that constantly amazes us. From seaplanes that take off a few hundred feet from us to all ships anchored next to us it's amazing. Some days there are 20' sailboats that you wonder how they made it across an ocean in that and some days mega motor yachts 245' long are our neighbors.
For me I think a hot dusty boat yard is beautiful but for most people gin clear blue water and swaying palms fit their ideal description; yup that’s our location. Now in all honesty we have only sailed the Abaco's in the Bahamas and the Virgin Islands but so far so beautiful. There are more shades of blue than in your paint tray and the sun reflecting off the different bottom surfaces means those shades of blue are constantly changing. The green of the hills and the foliage goes from intense green to the bright yellow green. There are the rain forests of western St. Croix (STX) that are in stark contrast to the semi-arid landscape of eastern STX; all dictated by the constant Trade Winds. Sunrises and Sunsets are provided by the Original Lighting Designer and like snowflakes, no two are ever the same and most evenings we pause to appreciate the sun sinking below the horizon often with the aptly named 'sundowner' beverage in hand. The wind sings different tunes through your rigging and the water warns you of danger by its turmoil or lulls you to sleep by its gentle rocking. The water can also soak you to the bone when it breaks over the bow of your boat or dinghy and while not always welcomed it beats being blanketed with snow. Each town has its own distinct architecture and character.
Where we are currently anchored in St. Thomas (STT), there is a strong Danish influence likewise in Christiansted and Frederiksted in STX. There are your beach bars with their sandy floors and structures made up of whatever floated up onto the beach. There are the ruins of the past, a darker part of our history where men sold other men to work sugar plantations. There are the ruins of dreams and plans that have been consumed by the landscape. Now it is the Third World down here so there is poverty, a lot of poverty, so it all isn't right out of the travel brochure but it isn't a bleak as you might imagine either. There are your big luxury themed resorts and posh private islands to your small and funky boutique hotels and B&B's. Hint: go small and funky! And then there is the weather. Yes it is hot in the summer but it's also hot in the winter, well warm but it doesn't vary much. Right now it's March and while the water is a little cooler that in the summer (more about that in #6) I still wear shorts and a t-shirt if any shirt every day. We seek out shade not so much to escape the sun but to escape the sunburn.
Yup, the realtors are right, it's Location, Location, Location!
|The Queen Came to town on Boxing Day|
|S/V Staid Amsterdam|
|Seaplane off the stern of S/V Mystic|
|Three Pretty Girls|
|Washington Estate St. Croix|
|Washington Estate St. Croix|
|Washington Estate St. Croix|
|Sunset from the Original Lighting Designer|
|Another Sunset from the Original Lighting Designer|
|Anchored next to Eric Claptons (former) boat|
|Maho Bay St. John|
|Far East End of St. Croix|
|Morning has broken at Buck Island St. Croix|
Number 8: New People and Cultures
In this one I am not talking about fellow cruisers and sailors, that comes later and you might want to place your bets of which number it possesses. No, I am talking about the people who inhabit the islands, Da Natives Mon. Now like the USA the indigenous peoples are few and far between and most of us are immigrants legal or illegal. In the Carib, there is a blend of Europeans- mostly Danes, French, and English- with those from the USA as latecomers to the party.
OK, I need to take an arrogance and ignorance break here and hopefully save some of you from embarrassment. Those of us from the 50 states and various territories that comprise the United States of America and outlying territories you are not the ONLY Americans. If you are in Panama for example and someone asks you where you are from, if you answer 'America' you might get a chilly response or one in which you are informed that so are they, from America. So even if you have the new and improved version of history taught in schools understand that the USA is part of the American experience shared with neighbors to the north and all the way down to Cape Horn.
Back to our little story. The other group of people are comprised of the descendents of those displaced by the Europeans who came here and those brought against their will. There are also a good number of people from Latin American countries, especially Puerto Rico. In the Bahamas, there are a good number of English descendents who left what was to become the USA before and during the Revolution in support of England. Well, it's all very confusing and James Michener I am sure goes into great detail in his novel "The Caribbean," my point being people are different down here. Customs are different and while most speak a version of English, there are local dialects that will leave you confused and amazed. For the most part the people are friendly and helpful although there is some racism (black towards minority whites) it is not prevalent and don’t ever fool yourself that it gives you a taste of what Blacks in our country experienced, it's not even close. The best advice we got was from a person who lives down here and does the briefings for one of the charter companies; he told us to always start by saying hello or good morning/day even if you are ordering food. When we are taking the public transport, the Safari Bus here in STT there will be a mix of school children, locals, cruisers, and confused cruise ship passengers and crew who wander on, almost every adult local (not as much with the younger ones) will get on with a Good Morning, Good Morning and your response is Good Morning; well of course not morning if its afternoon. Since I never know what time it is I opt for Good Day which seems to work. It is amazing how much better any service or acceptance is when you start with a greeting instead of a demand or request, or silence. Other local customs can be a bit more confusing. At the marina we were moored at in the British Virgin Islands (BVI) the restrooms seemed to be treated as unisex by the locals, I was not so brave. There is a lot of car horn honking here and its seldom a warning but rather a greeting to others. As a pedestrian you must adopt the attitude that you do not have the right of way; ever! Above All, remember it is not YOUR island! You travel to experience different ways of doing things so don't expect it to be like home. Yes it can be frustrating but it usually isn't the end of the world, just a new one so slow down, breathe, relax, enjoy, and remember Evy Tin Kewl Mon!
Number 7: Exotic Food; Or Not
We quickly learned two lessons about food. First it is far more expensive than we were used to and second it can be strange and different looking. Of course there are hundreds of places to get a cheeseburger and strangely enough they are all "the" cheeseburger in paradise. Most are pretty good which might have a lot to do with where you eat them (see #9) and some are paradise lost. We have had good luck going to places the locals go, many having no names posted and we found by accident. We stumbled on to a bakery in STT while trying to cash a check and discovered apple strudel that keeps us coming back. While in the BVI, we discovered a BBQ food truck that had the locals lining up before it opened and that was often our meal for the day. They always had chicken (dark meat, not Jo's favorite) or ribs (Jo's favorite) and we always seemed to miss when there was swordfish and never tried the oxtail soup. We will often just ask a local where they like to eat and go there. If the place is all filled with white people we shy away. We found good Chinese in the TuTu Mall in STT and there is even pizza served out of the back of a boat anchored in Christmas Cove in the USVI. Our rule when traveling is never eat somewhere you can eat back home. Pretty easy here since the only 4 chains we have seen are all in STT and are comprised of KFC, Wendy's, McDonalds, and Subway. Of those, with the exception of KFC there are only one or two franchises.
Yes, we could eat all US brands and eat at the handful of franchise fast food restaurants but we could also be doing this adventure on a cruise ship. We have both lost weight, how much, we don't know, don't care. I need to check my blood pressure to confirm but I am sure it is mostly down. All of which is a combination of lifestyle and different eating. I must admit that we found $2 a bag taco chips at K Mart so we haven't been totally off the junk. Hey we're from Texas, chips and guacamole are a birthright, even if we weren't born there. When it comes right down to it, people eat everywhere in the world so they will be food. You might not recognize it but its food so; Bon' Appetit!
Number 6: World's Biggest Swimming Pool
OK so for some of you the thought of swimming in the ocean cues the Jaw's soundtrack in your head but we have yet to see a shark in the Caribbean. That doesn't mean they are not here, they just don't seem to be interested in us. The Bahamas are a different story but more on that later. For the most part, wherever we are anchored or on a mooring ball the pool is off the back step of our home. The few exceptions being dirty marinas where you rarely swim. The underwater world is incredible and all you need is a snorkel mask and maybe fins to explore it. I scuba dive a little, Jo does not, but we both love to snorkel and even if you stay in one place the world below you keeps moving by and changing. It's salt water so you are more buoyant so you can just float along and although not "bathtub" warm even here in the middle of Caribbean winter it is quite refreshing. During the summer the water temp rises some but there is nothing more refreshing than at the end of the day to jump in the ocean and cool off. We will often tie a float (usually a fender) on a line off the back platform so if there is any current we don't want to work against we can just hold on and float there; sometimes with adult beverage in hand. If there is no current we grab a couple of swim noodles and, you got it float. We can even choose to bathe in mother ocean; it's called a Joy bath after the Joy dishwashing detergent you use. You see, Joy sudses up in saltwater (other soaps do not) so you jump into the ocean, climb out via the handy swim ladder, suds up then jump back in to do your first rinse. After you are done swimming/bathing you get out again and rinse off with fresh water at the outdoor shower. Regardless of whether you choose a Joy bath or not you always rinse off after you are in saltwater before you go in the boat since saltwater never really dries and you really want to keep it and any gritty sand out of the boat. See, easy as can be!
Creatures in the ocean. Yes, there are and often they are as curious about you as you are about them and with rare exception they are more afraid of you that you of them. There are creatures you don't even know are creatures, I speak of coral. It might just look like a rock or a plant to you but it is a complicated organism that is critical to maintaining the health of the ocean. Sailors are a mixed lot when it comes to their politics but when it comes to the health of the coral reefs we are all agreed, if they die, the ocean dies; and they are dying; and yes, human-assisted climate change is partially to blame. Ok off my short soap box and back into the water. On to avoiding: with toothy underwater creatures or the jellies this just takes common sense. Don't bleed in the ocean yourself or spear a fish and not get it out of the water directly. Don't wear shiny silver jewelry, especially if it dangles as this looks to a Barracuda a lot like lunch. Other things we avoid, swimming at night as this is when a lot of feeding appears to be going on. The first time we were in Caneel Bay on St. John (STJ) we kept hearing splashing off the back of the boat one evening long after the sun went down. By the time we looked around whatever caused the commotion had ceased. After it had happened a few more times we got out a flashlight and shined it on the water only to see dozens of amber eyes. Upon closer observation we saw the very large silver bodies that accompanied the eyes. Seems a group of Tarpon were attracted by the light from our cockpit that was spilling onto the water attracting smaller fish that the Tarpon seemed to enjoy as their dinner. There's always a bigger fish! Also, if the locals tell you it is not safe to swim in the water because of X Y or Z, don’t swim in the water. In the Bahamas there are a lot of sharks, and the industry that centers around feeding them just so tourist divers can swim among them is very popular. To my thinking this is effin nuts! Sharks associate people with food, ergo people bring food, ergo if people don't bring food then people must be food. See, it's a slippery slope. The number of shark fatalities and attacks is very small compared to the number of attacks on people by land based animals but they do make better TV. Bottom line, situational awareness and don't do something stupid, ok! Sometimes the life in the water jumps out of the water. On a crossing to STX you will see hundreds of flying fish; yes they really do have wings. They will fly hundreds of yards across the water to escape a bigger fish that wants to make them their dinner. We have yet to see pods of dolphins swimming along the boat or whales breaching, but I did have a Ray jump out of the water chasing a smaller fish that had jumped seconds before. This all happened maybe 2m from the front of our dinghy while we were heading into shore; yes it was awesome!
Then there is the water clarity. Except in crowded harbors the water is so clear that you can see the bottom even in the deepest of anchorages. The color of the water represents infinite shades of blue. As you head out towards deeper water the blue gets deeper and richer than I can describe. In the shallower areas the blues change from deep to light to cyan and every hue between. The water warns you of dangers by it color. If its brown or greenish that means coral heads that can rip a hole in your boat. If its breaking more in one area than where you are it is a sure sign there is a reef or rocks there so stay away. Yes it is a great swimming pool we live on and the greatest thing is I don't have to vacuum it every week. Oh and BTW, it's ok to pee in the ocean, not in your neighbors' swimming pool.
Fifty Shades of Blue (Give or Take) and a creature who lives in them
Fifty Shades of Blue (Give or Take) and a creature who lives in them
|Thats' 15' down and you see the bottom|
|swimming around Da Boat|
|Swimming in the BVI|
|Swimming in the BVI|
|Swimming in the BVI|
|The Water of the Bahamas|
|Deep Blue Sea!|
|The Water of the Bahamas|
Number 5: Sex IS Better On A Boat
OK so my editor rolled her eyes on this one and I am sure my daughters have covered their eyes but yes, sex is better on a boat and sailors do make better lovers. I mean it was on the interweb so it must be true: http://yachtpals.com/sex-sailing-4126
Ok so it was an Aprils Fool's article but my contention is that it is the truth disguised as an April Fool's joke. That's my story and I am sticking to it!
Number 4: Self Reliance
There are no plumbers at sea; or mechanics, or electricians, seamstresses, doctors, or countless others you might need to keep going unless you bring them along. That can make for a very long and expensive crew manifest. I know there are many 'official' patron saints of sailors but one unofficial one has to be MacGyver. His ability to take a piece of string, chewing gum and a bobby pin and make a Buick is an inspiration to us all who work on boats. A couple of entries ago I wrote about boat projects and maintenance and since there is yet to be a self-maintaining boat on the market those chores continue to fill a small or large part of my day. When we first came on the boat all of it was overwhelming, but little by little, project by project it is less so. Notice I didn't say easier. You become creative, whether on a sewing project, a plumbing leak, or a broken spring on one of your engines (all real things on CD). You read a lot of manuals and ask a lot of questions and get a lot of advice that often leaves you more confused. Ask three sailors about batteries and you will get five different answers. Anchors, nope, it's safer to discuss politics or religion. Several discussions go like this: "ok, so if we take that piece of line and splice it around that washer we can……" You get the point. This is where being out of technical theatre helps, it's what we did all the time. In fact theatre and sailing are closely linked. The first theatre riggers were sailors and many of the terms used backstage came off the tall ships; pin rail for example. Every time we come up with a solution or master a new skill we build our confidence. Now I must say it is easier for sailors today than even 20 years ago, especially sailors with a good wifi signal. I needed to change the fuel filters (there are two on each engine that I know about) for the two Yanmar diesel auxiliary engines on CD. There were two things I know, 1. Where they are located 2. If I screwed it up it would be bad; hello Mr. Google! Yes a quick computer search for my primary Racor filter and I had a You Tube of my exact unit there for me to watch. Still intimidated by the project I dove in and guess what, the engines started. Turns out these Racor filters were very dirty so I decided to then change the secondary filters located on the engines themselves. This is trickier since the next stop is the engine itself and any contaminate (mainly water) or air introduced into the system and all my hard work on the Racor's would be for naught. Ok so back to my friend Mr. Google, but guess what nothing that looked like my engine model so I went and took pictures with my trusty iPhone6 of the parts involved; see, you have to use a pump to pump the air out whilst pumping the fuel in and 'turn me' or 'pump here' wasn't labeled anywhere. Then through the magic of the interweb and Facebook I posted my questions and pictures on an owners group of our manufacturer and I got two different versions of how to do it, one with pictures and arrows with a paragraph (not on the back <again if you know you know>) describing the process. Once the motion of the ocean (not related to #5) calmed down I decided to tackle it and guess what, it didn't work; hmmm. A quick call to my buddy John on S/V Marilyn and he dinghied over and showed me what I did wrong and we got the port engine working and then after he left I did starboard. "I have always depended on the kindness of strangers." It was while working on the starboard engine I noticed a spring dangling and figured it was not a good thing so looked around, found where it had broken off and with string, chewing gum, and a bobby pin….no, no, a trip to Ace Hardware and I was able to find something close that I could modify to work. I still have no idea what the spring does but it is there to do it now. Oil changes are pretty straight forward and happen every 100 hours for the engines and 200 hours for the generator, why, well because "a diesel loves its oil, like a sailor loves his rum, squirt."
One of the more baffling things to me when I first considered running off to sea was how do I know where I am? Are there street signs? Well yes there are my son, they are called the stars. Well forget that, I have trouble keeping the names of my children straight, let along billions and billions of stars well except for the one really big one, the sun. If all else fails I know it rises in the east and sets in the west and from there north and south are just 90 degrees away. Yes I really want to learn celestial navigation but damn, GPS makes it so easy. Yes sailors today have that part easier but the prudent ones still have paper chart backups and remember the sun rises in the east. As for getting from point A to B, well if we get lost we can "just pull over and ask directions." No we can't but where we are in the Caribbean- with a few exceptions- you can see the next island you are heading to, and, as long as your chart plotter(s) are working, also see it electronically. The chart plotter is like your Garmin or TomTom device you might have in your car that shows you the roads, your car on the roads, and gives you verbal directions. The only difference with the marine chart plotter, no roads and no verbal directions. It does give you your position on an electronic chart as well as other information, important information, such as what’s in front of you and under you so you don't run into it or up on it.
One test of our self reliance is coming up for us here on CD. If all goes as planned, shortly after I have posted this we will be undertaking our first real open-ocean crossing from the BVIs to St. Martin (SXM.) Although it is just 90nm (right down the road a piece in Texas terms) it does involve us leaving at midnight from the BVIs to arrive in good daylight in SXM; this is very important. This means sailing at night. Along with no street signs in the ocean there are no street lights and no headlights (per-say) on a boat. There are the stars and if you're lucky a full or partially full moon to help guide you. The moon will be of no help to us at this time of the month so we are depending on light from the stars along with the aid of the device that has made sailors' lives far easier: GPS and the chart plotter. We still need more but right now we have a dedicated chart plotter with the charts (maps), one on the iPad, one on the iPhone5, and if needed my iPhone3s. We will also set a compass heading and plot our course on a paper chart via Dead Reckoning or DR. We are both excited and nervous about what challenges we might encounter but we are sailors and you know I can't help myself, "if it's going to happen, it's going to happen out there".
Number 3: Freedom
OK, so no one is ever totally free, especially of responsibilities but sailing does allows us a certain amount of freedom that our lives on land didn't. You are free to go where you want, so long as the weather and governments of where you want to go allow. You are free to go when you like, well except for the weather part. But along with this "freedom" comes responsibilities. Responsibilities to the boat, to your crew, to yourself. If, like us, a bank owns part of your freedom then also to them. In our case we have chosen to carry insurance (well the bank liked the idea too) so we are responsible to the insurance company who puts restrictions on where we can sail and where we have to be at certain times of the year. I am reminded as I write of other limits on my freedom. Such as the desire to have a freezer, refrigerator, and the electricity to run all the devices I feel are really important in my life. All of the afore mentioned items takes power supplied by batteries charged by either the sun (it's raining right now) or a generator (that is chugging away right now) that makes our dependence on fossil fuel greater than I might wish.
There are limits on our freedom such as how much or how effectively we want to be able to communicate with family and friends back home. It is important that we are able to Skype with our son and talk on the phone with our daughters and fathers. This puts restrictions on where we are or how much we have to be willing to pay for the services needed. Freedom tied to money. The idealist in me wants to say we can do it without any money, my wife reminds me I like to eat. How much money does it take? Well after the givens, insurance and boat payment, it takes as much as you have got or you want to spend. Looking at some of the 200'+ mega yachts around us money isn't a determining issue for everyone but I know sailors living on less than $500 a month so it all comes down to making your choices. There is a saying; 'go small, go now' that promotes a very simple existence on the water. No or minimal electrical requirements, no refrigeration, no auxiliary engines or only outboard engines; this is great, if it fits your dream.
My point of this being, freedom isn't always free and can come with restrictions and responsibilities. However, when you are at the wheel or tiller of your boat, and it's just you and your mate and the sound of the wind and water, well that's a feeling of freedom you have to experience. At the end of the day when sailing into that one particular harbor to set the hook or grab a mooring and once everything is stowed away and shut down and you stand there looking around at the sandy beach, palm trees and gin clear water that’s a certain feeling of freedom that is worth all the cost. And when in that one particular harbor the jerk in the mega yacht complete with jet skis and rock concert sound system blasting some gosh-awful thump-thump music(?) you are also free to move your floating home to another harbor. You can also try to get yourself invited onboard his boat to enjoy their air conditioning and fancy food along with drinks with ice in them. Of course there is also the freedom (within the social mores of the island country you are at) to wear as many clothes or as few clothes as you wish. To quote one of our kids' babysitters "be naked, be free!" We are still warming up to that concept but on a long ocean crossing; hmm, we'll see just how free we will be.
So I leave # 3 Freedom with lyrics that are as true for us as any written:
When the sun's at his back
And the wind's in his face
It's just him at the wheel.
He wouldn't take a million for the
way it makes him feel.
Boats Vessels of freedom Harbors of Healing Boats
Number 2: Change in Lifestyle
It should go without saying that living on the water is different than living on land. I am not talking about those fancy houseboats in Sleepless In Seattle but living on a truly mobile home on a very fluid surface. The real change for us however was that we went from a 3,800 square foot home to a few hundred foot catamaran. Somehow though we also went from a 4 bedroom 3 bath house to a 4 bedroom (cabin) 4 bathroom (head) boat. What there is not a lot of is storage, especially convenient storage, and added weight to a boat is a detriment to its performance and safety so the first change in our lifestyle was to have less of it. We downsized! Not cleaning out your closet downsizing, cleaning out your life. We sold or gave away almost everything we had spent 35+ years together accumulating. If you went to our estate sale there was a lot of stuff. Still after that we had more stuff and had a garage sale and still after that we gave away or threw away more stuff that must have been important or necessary at the time until we had it down to a 5x10x10 storage locker and then it was still too much to fit on the boat. Do we miss all that stuff? Well sometimes yes! Mostly that coking pan or gadget or tool you wish you had. Has it impacted our life afloat? No, we adapt (see #4). We had too much stuff plain and simple. All I am sure was a great deal at the time but you can't take it with you, especially on a boat.
So what don't we need? Well still about half the clothes we brought. Mostly our lives are spent in shorts and t-shirts. Some sailors live in bathing suits but I don't find them that comfortable day in and day out. A lot of the female cruisers wear bikini bottoms and t-shirts while mostly the European men wear Speedos. I have yet to see a suit or tie (although I kept two of my favorites) no blue blazers, but then again we don't belong to a Yacht Club. We do however have nice clothes and long pants for when we decide to join in at a local church service or when checking in to a country where you want to show proper respect. I mean, they have to spend the day often in a hot uniform, so showing up in long pants, a shirt with a collar, and shoes/sandals, is the least you can do. So let's talk about shoes. On the boat we seldom wear shoes. This has led to the sanding down of the bottom of our feet by the non-slip surface on the boat. We do have 'boat shoes', no not some fancy leather thing with tassels, no, shoes that only stay on the boat and are safe on slippery surfaces. The reason they stay on the boat is so we don't track dirt, oil, sand, and the grime of land onto the surface of the boat and damage the finish. The reason we sometimes wear the dedicated boat shoes on the boat, well, see Part 16, Boat Bites. Although we think we want some sneakers for exploring islands and walking about the towns, so far a good pair of sturdy sandals have sufficed. Although we both have socks on board it has been months since I wore mine. We do each have a jacket, well foul weather gear to be more precise. Clean clothes becomes a combination of hand washing in an ice-chest or coin laundry or paying per-pound to have someone else wash it, so our whites aren't that white and colors are faded; oh my what to do!
What we eat (see #7) and when and how we eat has also drastically changed. The idea of 3-squares isn't always practical. Our food day often goes like this; breakfast: I start by making coffee, if that’s not available tea. When Jo gets up tea and then fresh fruit if we have it and breakfast cookies (yes cookies for breakfast because I can, see #3 Freedom) or if we are lucky some fresh bread and jam or butter, or both. In the 7 months we have been on the boat I can remember 'cooking' breakfast (besides toast in a frying pan) two times. Once French Toast made from some stale French bread and the other, eggs for a Sunday brunch. We like to keep it simple. Lunch/dinner and dinner/supper are pretty fluid and are dictated by where we are and what we are doing at the time as well as how hot it is and do we really want to heat-up the boat with the stove. We usually eat one "big" meal a day and that is often but not always in the middle of the afternoon followed by nap time. Then for the evening meal, well this is often cheese and crackers, popcorn, or something light after the sun goes down as well as the sundowners. It's not a hard and fast plan but more times than not, it’s the plan we follow. We try and eat locally sourced food when we can but it is not always possible. What I am amazed at is there is not as much fish (well that I recognize) available. Yes I want to be able to catch and eat my dinner but in true confessions, I have only caught and released fish, I have no idea how to clean or prepare one; time to learn. In the Caribbean you have to be careful about eating reef fish because of the toxin Ciguatera. This covers most grouper, snapper, barracuda, amberjacks, triggerfish, parrotfish, and moray eels; so we are careful. Now offshore it is not a problem so I am hoping to hook a mahi-mahi on my way to SXM. We also don't drink a lot of soda (it's expensive) and have cut way back on artificial sweeteners; baby steps! We try to be aware of how much sun we get each day. Being a former natural redhead I still burn easily and the top of my hands often sport blisters from second degree sunburn if I am not careful. Likewise my rapidly thinning hair allows for prime burn surface on the top of my head so I never leave without a hat.
The biggest lifestyle change is that we have had time to slowdown. It's not always easy to adapt to island time but we are learning. I get embarrassed by my fellow countrymen who are pushy or demand it be done right then, afterward complaining about the service loudly. If you wanted it like it is back home then STAY HOME! Way, way back in one of my first blog entries I wrote about getting started on this adventure and mentioned it began with our first trip to Abaco in the Bahamas. We met a young couple who were commenting on the pace at which the renovations on the timeshares was happening, or not happening. He made the bold statement that if "they" worked for him, it would be at a more efficient pace and the job would get done faster. Yeah right buddy; their island, their rules Mon. Later on that trip we went with some others to Treasure Cay, one of the most idyllic beaches you would ever see. A hawser (a large rope) from a very large ship had washed up on this talcum powder white sand and the 'Big Boss' at the resort wanted it moved. We watched as two locals tried to move it with a wheelbarrow; of course it was slow going and soon after Da Boss went inside they figured they had moved it enough for the day and went to have a beer. We got to go back to Abaco the next year and to the same beach and damn it that hawser had now made it 10' up the beach. That, my readers, is island time. One cruiser calls cruising 90% boredom and 10% sheer terror; they might be right, I don't know haven't done it long enough. I will say when things happen, they often happen very fast, but not to worry, you're in tune with your boat and you'll deal with it. So slow down, what's the rush? Life is short and you're going to be dead a long time!
And now, I know you have all been waiting for it. The Number One Thing That is Great about being on a boat and living the nomadic life is:
1. The Other Cruisers and Sailors You Meet
Don't get me wrong, we have some very good friends back on land, you might be one of them; no, no, not you, him. Many of those friendships took months and years to develop and are tied to a common geography, sometimes job/school, and often church life. The friends you make out here are made fast and the only commonality you share is that you live on or work on, or both, boats. When we first got Caribbean Dream we lived at a dock in the middle of hurricane season. There weren’t a lot of people around and few if any cruisers. There were many people in the service industry who we got to know very well. Dave and Donna who worked in Road Town and lived on their boat two slips down from us. I am sad to say that Dave passed away a little while ago, it is a real shame. He was one of the good guys who had stories to tell from the early days of the charter industry as well as a lot of good and free advice for this newbie, especially after I crashed CD into the dock trying to back her into her slip the first time. He will be deeply missed by everyone who knew him. Eight Bells Dave Romasco. We met another Dave when I was trying to back CD in the first time and he offered to help me out; thank God. He and his wife Desiree run the charter cat S/V Majestic Sprit and although we seldom see them since they are busy with charters still they have been tremendous support as we started out. Tim from S/V Jet Stream, another charter captain, spent two days with us on the water working on our docking and boat handling skills. He also introduced us to Lincoln, the Yoda of boat systems who if we need something big done we move the boat to the BVI and call Lincoln. Of course the most gracious with their time and help have been Glenn and Angela the couple from whom we bought Caribbean Dream. In the first few weeks, ok months, of ownership I would email questions about this system or that. There are still more I want to ask but I am trying to figure it out on my own (#4).
What we hadn't met were other cruisers. I had established communications with many on Facebook in the various groups and I had read stories of many of them still sailing these very waters but we hadn't met them. No sundowners, potlucks, outings, or buddy boats on a crossing. In all honesty, I didn't know how that all worked. We had a couple if false starts getting off the dock due to repairs that sprung up (see Part 15) and had finally made it to Honeymoon Bay off Water Island in the USVI shortly before Christmas. There seemed to be a community of people who lived on boats which were flagged from all over the planet. One day I had posted a question on one of the USVI Cruisers FB pages about anchoring in another bay and was getting all kinds of advice. That morning a guy in a dinghy showed up and introduced himself, Tom of Tom & Pay on S/V Lone Star; which just happens to be the same make and model cat as CD. He gave me additional information on the anchorage I had asked about and gave us some valuable information. He told us to meet other cruisers, just go up in your dinghy and knock on their boat and introduce yourself; pretty simple. Well neither of us are exceptionally outgoing but we could warm up to the idea. (All that "stranger danger" and "don't make eye contact" safety stuff we taught the kids infected us too.) One day after we were out sailing we came back to Honeymoon Bay and after a failed attempt or two finally got the anchor to set. We ended up still closer to another boat than we had wanted so I went over in my dinghy to ask the captain, Eric, how much chain they had out. You see, it is best if you and your neighbor have close to the same amount of anchor chain/rode out in case the wind shifts and you start spinning around you all spin inside similar sized circles. We chatted and he thought we were fine. We also chatted about other things, one being the island of St. Croix where we were thinking about going, and about fishing. He said he would come over the next morning and we could look at the chart and visit some more which we did. A couple days later we saw him and his wife, Lynne, as we dinghied back to our boat and they invited us over to their boa S/V Amarula for sundowners later along with some of their other cruiser friends. Asked what to bring and we learned 'whatever you want to drink'. (When we got there we learned to also bring something to share as a snack; note taken.) That night we met three other couples who were anchored in Honeymoon Bay, Janice and Don of S/V Plane To Sea; Pat and Bridget on S/V Kioni; John and Sue on S/V Marilyn and had a great time. One of the couples (Janice and Don) were from Texas with a Texas Tech conection; Janice was even from Whiteright where my brother and his wife used to live, talk about your small world! The next day we all went snorkeling and followed that by watching the Dallas Cowboys trounce the Washington Redskins at a beach bar there at Honeymoon. I found out that another cruiser I had only met through Facebook was due into Honeymoon; Christina of Mark & Christina of S/V Rainbow We eventually met Christina and Mark on New Years' Eve on our boat as we partied on CD along with 15 other people. ( We joke that monohull sailors make friends with catamaran owners so they have a big platform for a party!) All of those we have met have far more experience than we do and have been a source of great inspiration, advice, and stories. They are from different countries and backgrounds but little is discussed of our past lives. Christina had been through a horrific experience in Union Island West Indies (WI) and came out the other side continuing to cruise and meet new people; I don't think I have met many stronger than her. On New Year's day part of the group, us included, made for STJ and Maho Bay as Christmas Winds (high sustained winds and gusts lasting for several days) were predicted and Maho was a great place to ride them out. Of course we all had a great time, helped each other out with projects and enjoyed sundowners together and met other cruisers; Wes & Karen of S/V Tropical Division. There were Birthday parties where we met fascinating people, beach potlucks, hikes, and trips to town. Now each time we arrive in an anchorage we look for the boats we recognize an if we don't know any, well we are getting braver about introducing ourselves. As of this writing our original group has split up with one in STX, two in SXM, some of us here in STT, and one in the Bahamas. We are all looking for the next weather window and adventure and any morning you might wake up and someone you had dinner with the night before might have gotten that window and taken off. Many we will meet up with again in Granada this summer to ride out hurricane season. When it comes down to our boats we all make our own decisions and seldom move as a group, although that's allowed and kinda of fun too.
Right now we are anchored 20m or so from John & Sue on S/V Marilyn who we have become particularly close to. Within the next 60 days they plan to head out for Columbia then Panama and eventually through the canal and across the Pacific and off to Sue's home in Australia. We will leave here in three or four days (weather permitting) for SXM and may not see them for years if at all, but if/when we do, we will most likely take up where we left off with a few more stories to tell. This network of friends/cruisers, all sharing the same joys, fears, frustrations, and successes will stay with us wherever we go thanks to computer communications. For me, I think the number one thing I have learned from them all is that it was hard for them too, especially the first year. We have ceased to be known as Fred & Jo Christoffel but rather Fred & Jo of S/V Caribbean Dream. We have a collection of Boat Cards complete with the first names of boat crews and the name and picture of their boat. We now have our own Boat Cards (works in progress) and have to remember to carry them with us when we meet new people. If there was something missing in the new life we had undertaken it was this, the network of likeminded people all living in a piece of fiberglass on a big beautiful sea.
People and Friends We Have Met (So Far)
People and Friends We Have Met (So Far)
OK! There you have it our Top Ten List of Things That Are Great about being on a boat and living the nomadic life. Nothing scary, no blood or danger, just what makes up 90% of our life now. It is a great life so far but not without both ups and downs. No, it's is not all rum drinks and palm trees but no one's is. I will say however, that spending the winter in shorts a t-shirt with shoes optional ain't half bad even on one of those 10% days. So if you find yourself in the neighborhood, come knock on our hull, say hi and enjoy a sundowner while watching the greatest show on water.
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